“Waves are like toys from God. And when I’m out here, I’m just playing.” Surfer Clay Marzo “While on a board, either surfriding or paddling, one is truly free from land-bound restrictions. For that hour he is captain of his fate, of his miniature ship. The burden of city, school, job, as well as the cares and [...]
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Archive for September 7th, 2012 |